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Civic Head Gasket

Q. How are you? First I would like to say that your site is wonderful, I am so glad I found it! Your newsletter has answered questions that I had that my Chilton book couldn't. Next weekend I am replacing my head gasket on my 1990 Honda Civic.

I'm assuming its the head gasket because where the head gasket is located there is oil leaking out in between the two surfaces. Also there is oil on the spark plug that is over top of where the oil is leaking. Please don't tell me that a ring is blown. I was also told that when head gaskets go there is usually coolant on the plug and/or coming out the tail pipe.

But wouldn't that depend on what port the gasket blew around? I'm not going to do any work till I hear back from you cause I have plenty of time and a clean garage to work in and I want to do this right!

Please write back and give me any pointers or things I might run into along the way or any tools I might need. This is probably asking a lot, but I feel if I ask anyone else I might get ripped off and you have no reason to do that to me.

Gratefully yours:
Cindy

A. Well Cindy, before I condem a head gasket, I would want to be absolutely sure it is a head gasket. What I would do is clean the area where you see the oil. When it's all clean, start the engine and drive it around the block. Open the hood and check the area carefully. It may take a while, but you want to see if the oil is indeed coming from the head gasket or the valve cover gasket. Oil leaks can be tricky. They can look like they're leaking from one place when they are actually leaking from somewhere else.

You are correct in that it depends where a head gasket blows. If it blows between two cylinders, there would be nothing visible from the outside. If it blows between a cylinder and water passage, you'll get coolant in the cylinder and the trademark white smoke from the tail pipe. Or, possibly as in your case, it could just be leaking oil or coolant without affecting the cylinders or engine operation.

If it is the head gasket, there is really nothing special you need. Just a good set of general tools and a torque wrench to torque the head bolts. The Chilton manual should suffice as far as removing and replacing the cylinder head goes. A little tip, get a roll of masking tape and mark any vacuum lines and electrical connectors you disconnect. This way you can be sure to put them back in the proper place when you are done.

Also, when the head is off, take it to an auto parts store that has a machine shop and have the head pressure tester and milled. This will ensure the head is not cracked and the mating surface is flat. If you want, for a few bucks more, you can get the whole head re-conditioned. Not a bad idea since it is out and at the machine shop anyway. The timing belt and water pump would be a good idea too. Especially if they have never been replaced.

Something like this causes a case of the "Might-As-Wells". You have it apart, now is a good time to replace these other wearable items. The fans belts are a good example. You have to take them off to do the head gasket. If they look like they are old and cracked, just buy a new set. You have

Just go slow and take your time. Make sure your timing marks are lined up correctly before you take anything apart and don't move anything while it's apart. It's not a particularly difficult job on your car. It is just going to take some work. I would price this job out at about 8 hours labor, that's including the timing belt and water pump. You should allow yourself at least 10 hours to do the job.

Additional Information provided courtesy of ALLDATA

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