Questions and Answers

Bonneville With Some History Q. I have a 1997 Pontiac Bonneville SE. It has a V-6 engine with 100,000 miles on it. It has an automatic transmission, fuel injection, ABS brakes, A/C, Power locks and windows, and some other goodies. But here is the problem from start to finish.

At around 90,000 miles the water pump went out and the engine over-heated slightly. I kept pouring in the water and the temperature gauge never did hit red line though it was above normal temperature. I drove it for about 50 miles before I was able to get the water pump problem fixed.

Time passed and about four months and 6,000 miles later I blew a head gasket. I drove it about one mile directly to the shop and had this gasket problem fixed. I picked up my car and everything seemed okay for about three to four days.

Then I drove it 400 miles non-stop on a trip and stopped for gas. While getting gas I checked my oil and realized that it was a quart low. I put a quart in not really worrying about it and drove another 400 miles before my next fill-up. I checked the oil again only to realize that I had lost another quart. So now I'm losing a quart of oil every 400 miles.

I started paying more attention and started parking in the same spot overnight for several nights. There were no spots so I know it was not leaking. Then one day I started the car and it smoked for about two to three seconds and then quit. I called the place that fixed my car and they told me to put in a higher weight oil so I did. I can now get 600 miles before I lose that quart of oil but it still smokes at start up. After the car runs for a few seconds, the smoke no longer occurs.

I've had mechanics tell me it is the rings and some tell me it is the valve seals and others tell me it is a cracked head. Though I'm not losing any water. Some places recommend a new motor and some a ring job. I read some of your other Q/A's but no one knows what a wet/dry compression test is. They only refer to it as a compression test. And tell me that it won't tell me if it is the rings or valves because of compression rings?

Is the "compression test" and "wet/dry compression test" the same thing? Also, what is your opinion that would cause this oil to be burnt only at start-up and not driving? I know my car is burning oil, is this bad for the engine and can I just keep putting oil in the car? I don't have the money to have extensive work done so if I can just put oil in the car with no harm I will.

What is your opinion of "Slick 50"? One more thing, while driving my car and at start-up the oil pressure is perfect. But after a short travel on the interstate and then I come to a stop the oil pressure will lower a great deal. It does not quite reach the red zone but it does drop drastically. Do you think this is related or maybe just a sending unit? I know I have lots of questions, but I just respect your input and need help.

Thank you,
Shane

A. The best thing you can do here is check the oil regularly and just add whatever oil that's recommended. The puff at start up is a sign of bad valve seals. A dry compression test will tell you the overall state of health of the rings/block sealing. By adding a squirt of oil into the cylinder before checking compression will seal any tiny gaps in any rings/block. If the compression increases significantly, it would indicate bad rings or scored block cylinder walls. I would just drive it until you can locate a better means of transportation.

As for Slick 50... FTC Sues Speedway Motorsports