Questions and Answers

Toyota Camry Now Overheats Q. I drained the coolant, flushed with water, added Xerex bottle of flush, ran engine 15 minutes, flushed with water, added straight water, drove 15 miles round trip to work, drained, then added 3½ quarts anti-freeze and topped off with water. After first step above, I replaced the coolant sending unit which was for months making it read only cold on the gauge.

Then the bi-metal valve next to the sending unit because I broke the vacuum fitting while changing the sending unit. Whew! Now, the temperature gauge climbs fairly rapidly, and almost reaches the red zone after about seven miles in 60° weather, even with me running the heater full blast the whole way.

Did I miss a maintenance step along the way, perhaps to bleed out trapped air? It's possible the car was running hot before this maintenance, but I don't think so since the temperature gauge always behaved pretty normally until it died.

1994 Toyota Camry LE
4 cylinder
automatic transmission
109,000 miles
P/S - A/C - Cruise control

Thanks
Jerry

A. These engines do not require a specific bleed procedure. After filling the cooling system, run the engine to operating temperature with the radiator/pressure cap off. Air will then be automatically bled through the cap opening.

It's not unusual to get a bad, new, thermostat. I would try putting in another one and see what happens. You can test them by putting them in a pot of boiling water and seeing at what temperature it starts to open at.

Also you need to make sure it's installed properly. If it is not lined up, it will over heat. When you put it in, make sure you align the jiggle valve of the thermostat with the upper side of the stud bolt, and insert the thermostat in the water pump. NOTE: The jiggle valve may be set within 5° of either side of the prescribed position.