Questions and Answers
Accord Timing Belt
Q. Hello friend, Auto: 1983 Honda Accord. Automatic. 1.8 liter engine. Carburetor. Electronic ignition.
Problem: I could not get the crankshaft pulley-bolt (83 lb/ft) off with an electric impact wrench rated at 240 lb/ft. It was suggested I could jam the flywheel torque converter (which can be accessed through the timing mark hole). One of the bolt heads that holds the torque converter on to the flywheel could be jammed with a screwdriver or something. After jamming it, I would ‘break’ the pulley-bolt with an extension bar. My trusted retired mechanic said this: “doesn’t sound too cool, would never do it, the torque converter could possibly warp from all the needed pressure.” He said to use an air compressed impact wrench; he questions the electric impact wrench. His philosophy is to not needlessly cause possible serious secondary problems.
Anyway, I had to put everything back together till I can get an air impact wrench (I should have tried removing the bolt first….) I consider myself to have some real mechanical talent and aptitude (you get to appreciate the many facilities needed to be a good mechanic, when you actually go in there; most people just don’t understand) although I am not an expert, but nonetheless I believe I can handle this with a few pointers. What do you make of this, what could be done? I want to change the timing belt as soon as possible; it is long over due for a change.
Also, the official shop manual says nothing about having to remove the air conditioning bracket too (which would be a real pain) but it seems that it might be pinning in the timing belt. I will take a closer look at it, but it would be better if I knew before hand, do you have any ideas from your experience?
Finally, should new brake drum/rotor lug bolts be used every time new brake drums/rotors are replaced or can the old lug bolts be reused?
I hope I have not selfishly asked too many questions and I hope I have been as concise as possible. Thanks. Take care.
Truly,
CHA. You're friend is right, I wouldn't want to use the torque converter to hold the engine while I broke that bolt loose. I would, however, pull the starter out (easy to do) and use a flywheel holder or big screwdriver to hold the flywheel while I broke it loose.
Some of the other ways I have held an engine is to put a big wrench on the alternator nut while I broke the bolt loose. This doesn't always work, depends on how tight the belts are. There is a special pulley clamp that is basically an adjustable chain that will hold the crankshaft pulley.
There is one other way to break loose a stubborn crankshaft bolt, but you need to be very, very careful. What you do is use a long breaker bar with a socket on the bolt. Prop one end on the frame and hit the key a couple of times. The starter will provide the torque you need to crack the bolt loose. Of course you need to disable the ignition system, you do NOT want the engine to start when you do this. This method is not recommended or advised, it's more of a last resort, I've tried everything else in the book, method.
Nine times out of ten holding the flywheel will do the job for you.
I don't remember ever having to remove the A/C bracket to get the timing belt out, just the A/C belt. The two manuals I looked in also don't mention removing the bracket either.
If you are referring to the lug bolts themselves, if they are part of the brake drum, you should get new ones with the replacement drum. If they don't come with new lug bolts, I would advise installing brand new ones. The bolts for the rotors are in the hub so replacement with new rotors are not required. There is no reason not to reuse the old lug nuts unless they are rounded off or if the threads are showing signs of wear.
And there's no such thing as asking me too many questions. As my Grandfather used to say, "The only stupid question is the one that wasn't asked."
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