Questions and Answers

Dakota Tune-up Q. Vince, I was wondering if you could help me out? My girlfriend and I recently did a quick tune up on her 1997 Dodge Dakota, 3.9 liter V-6. We basically changed out the spark plugs, plug wires, air filter, and PCV valve. I didn't change out her cap and rotor at the time, because they looked to be in very good shape.

Prior to us doing the tune up, her truck ran generally pretty well, just a little under powered, with 80,000 miles on it, we thought it couldn't hurt to do what we did. But after we finished, her engine began to stumble and hesitate during the first part of the acceleration after shifting. When she begins to let up on the clutch, and push on the gas, the engine begins to vibrate very roughly, but then eventually subsides after coming to full speed, or going into the next shifting point. We have not had any problems with the clutch previously, and the problem definitely seems to stem from the engine.

I have double checked the spark plugs wires, and they are all correctly in place. We were told that sometimes PCV vales take a while to break in, and that could be what's causing some of the trouble? We used the new Bosch Platinum 4+ spark plugs as well, which don't have a gap set, they are set from the factory. But there again I have now heard from some people that these plugs sometimes don't operate to well in certain engines? I'd really appreciate your help, or any ideas you may have in helping us get this sorted out.

Thanks for your help,
Ryan

A. I think the problem here Ryan is that you changed the spark plug wires. Not that it is a bad thing, but you probably, unknowingly, routed them wrong. For some reason the 1994 to 1999 Dakota trucks with the 3.9, 5.2, and 5.9 liter engines were very sensitive to cross-fire.

Here's what you need to get and how to route the wires so there is no more cross-firing.

PARTS REQUIRED:
3	56028186	Clip, Single Wire
2	06503441	Clip, Wire To Hose (5.2 & 5.9)
1	04364375	Convolute, 10 ft Roll

Coil Wire Routing

• Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap tower terminal.
• Remove the coil wire from the right rear five-wire clip, the center three wire clip and the front one-wire clip on the right valve cover.
• Install three (3) one-wire clips P/N 56028186 along the top and front of the valve cover studs.
• Route the coil wire starting from the ignition coil toward the distributor. Any excess wire should end up at the distributor end.
• Install the coil wire into the one-wire clips. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover (before the one-wire clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
• Cut the ignition wire convolute P/N 04364375 into three lengths. Two (2) at 101.5 mm (4 in.), and one (1) at 82.5 mm (3.25 in.).
• Slit and install the three sections of convolute onto the coil wire between the one-wire clips. Install the 82.5 mm (3.25 in.) section at the front of the right valve cover. Install the two 101.5 mm (4 in.) sections along the top side of the right valve cover. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover (before the clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
• Route the distributor end of the coil wire down and behind the intake manifold, in front of the oil pressure switch.
• Position the original piece of coil wire convolute so it protects the wire against chafing with components at the rear of the engine.
• Route the distributor end of the coil wire up the side of the distributor cap and onto the coil wire tower terminal.

NOTE: THE COIL WIRE MUST BE A MINIMUM OF ONE (1) INCH AWAY FROM ANY OTHER IGNITION WIRES. THIS MAY REQUIRE THAT THE COIL WIRE BE ROUTED UNDER VACUUM AND/OR WIRE HARNESSES IN THE RIGHT REAR CORNER OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.

Let me know if that fixes you up.

Additional Information provided courtesy of ALLDATA