Questions and Answers
Nissan Truck Clutch Job
Q. Hiya, Vince (or whoever gets this), I don't know if you have the time to respond to every (or any) questions from readers, but as I read your DIY guides, you seem like a fellow who will respond impartially to a clutch question.
I have to say, I have enjoyed getting greasy in the driveway maintaining my 1993 Nissan (2400cc 5-speed, El Cheapo) pickup since I bought it (14 miles total -- my first new car). Moreover, it's been remarkably easy to figure out how to keep it on the road using my own two hands and optimistically pea-sized brain.
Until, that is, I was trying to un-parallel-park myself from the front of the local coffee shop in morning rush hour.
*kerblooie!*
I thought I had backed into a bus. After seeing that the bed of the truck still existed and the TX bus line was indeed *not* parked in my camper shell, I knew what had happened. My clutch had finally let go. Heck, I waited long enough for it to happen. My odometer read 217,000 miles -- those are all hard, ill-weather, mountainous driving miles. And, yes, this was the original clutch.
Now, I know a clutch is not a job I'm qualified to complete, so I had it towed to a local well-referenced transmission shop, and threw myself at the owner's mercy (I'll leave the names out to preserve innocence if I'm just being paranoid).
500 bucks later, I have a brand-new clutch and it seems to work fine with two exceptions:
1. It makes these weird squeaking/whining noises when I hold the pedal just before the friction point -- especially when double-clutching in reverse (to get back into the shoe box-sized spot in front of the aforementioned coffee shop). It sounds like the wheel on the janitor's cart at our office when he's got a heavy load on it. It's not loud, but I can hear it when I turn the stereo down, and it's making me nutso (As evidenced by this rambling e-mail).
2. The pedal is MUCH easier to push to the floor than the old one. Three weeks later, I'm still surprised at the lack of resistance in the pedal.
Is the softer pedal a sign of a weaker clutch? Am I getting a light-duty replacement for my old heavy-duty clutch?
In the end, after getting such incredible performance out of the stock clutch, should I have taken it to a dealer and had the Nissan spec clutch installed?
Other than the two differences noted, the transmission shop did a bang-up job on the clutch, having it finished in about 24 hours. I know $500 is pricey, but hey, in the Bay Area, milk is almost four bucks a gallon. If these are nominal issues when it comes to a new clutch, I'd like to apply the proper gratitude to the local mechanics.
If not, I'd like to have things put straight, but I want to be sure I have a reason to stick to my guns when they tell me it's nothing to worry over.
So, I guess the question really is -- will it matter?
Thanks a million,
Andy Vaughan
Technical Editor, Shade Tree MechanicA. Are you really with the TV show Shade Tree Mechanic?!?!? I watch it all the time and I try to never miss it. I feel honored you came to me instead of the mechanics you have on the show. What a vote of confidence. I just hope I don't let you down. In fact my newsletter is called The Shade Tree Gazette.
Well, down to business. I estimated this job and I come up with about $220.00 for (Nissan) parts and 5.0 hours labor, which at an average $65.00 an hour is $325.00. Total: $545.00. Assuming he used aftermarket parts which would be somewhat cheaper, he's in the ball park.
As for the firmness of the clutch pedal, based on the hundreds of these trucks I have driven and the number of clutches I have replaced on them, it is my experience that it doesn't take much effort to disengage the clutch. It is quite possible the firmness you felt on the old clutch was too much, and a sign of it going bad. The fact that it went out all of a sudden instead of a gradual wearing out would tend to support this.
As for the noise, it depends precisely where the noise begins. If the noise starts when you put pressure on the throw out bearing, then it is the bearing. If the noise goes away when you put pressure on the throw out bearing, it is the input shaft main bearing. That would require a transmission overhaul to correct. If they did not lube the shoulder where the throw out bearing rides or the clutch fork pivot, that might make a noise as well.That's about the only times a clutch would make a noise.
One other thing I should mention, if they did not replace the clutch slave cylinder, do it before it blows out. And it will. I have yet to see an old slave cylinder go more than three or four weeks after a new clutch without blowing out.
Hey! Got room for me on your show?
Additional Information provided courtesy of ALLDATA
