Questions and Answers
Couple Of Astro Problems
Q. I actually have two problems which have come about at the end of a vacation I took last week which included about 900 miles of driving. The first problem is that the vents are stuck in the "defrost" position. I can turn the dial, and it will turn the A/C on and off at the right times as well as turn the system off when turned to that position, however the air always blows out of the windshield and floor vents.
This happens to be the last position it was in when I turned the vehicle off the last time it worked properly.
The second problem is that it isn't starting right. It used to start well, it would "catch" right away. Now, I it will crank for up to 15 or more seconds before it catches. Once it starts it runs fine, idles fine, no problems with acceleration or anything else. I put in a can of fuel injector cleaner as a stretch, but that hasn't done anything. I am suspecting the wires, actually the main wire from the "distributor" (I know vehicles don't have those anymore and that's just my term for that housing where the plug wires come out. I'm not a mechanic by any means.)
Some background: I bought the vehicle as a certified GM used vehicle at 27,000 miles. Since then I have done some routine maintenance, but no tune-up, wires, or plugs. I have an appointment next week for some of this maintenance which I was planning before the vacation, but I was hoping to get this starting problem fixed before I have more problems. By the way, when the dealer charges you $180.00 for a tune-up, what are they doing and is it worth the expense?
I have a...
1997 Chevy Astro AWD
4.3 liter V-6 with about 103,000 miles on it.
Fuel injectionThanks!
JeffA. There are two mode door actuators that control mode selection. They are both vacuum operated. The mode knob controls the vacuum switch. For each mode knob position, the vacuum switch will direct engine vacuum to specific hoses and vents the remaining hoses. When a hose is vented to normal air pressure, the vacuum actuators internal spring will expand and hold the associated valve in one position. When vacuum is routed to the hose, the force of the vacuum overcomes the internal spring pressure and moves the valve to another position. In this way, the mode knob positions the valves for the selected operating mode.
What has possibly happened is the control switch has gone bad or a vacuum line has cracked or come off. I would look at the vacuum line going from the engine to the firewall and make sure it is still attached and in good shape.
As far as the hard starting, I would replace the spark plugs and ignition wires first and see what that does. In a lot of cases this will cure the problem. If it doesn't, then you should have the computer checked for DTCs. If there is a code P0338 set, replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS). This code will not turn the Check Engine Light on.
Most dealership tune-ups includes: "Renew & adjust spark plugs, inspect distributor cap, rotor & ignition cables, adjust ignition timing and advance (where applicable). Service or renew air, fuel filter and PCV valve. Check and make necessary fuel adjustments and service battery." The labor time is about three hours. Of course you can have the same thing done at any good shop for a lot less.
Is it worth the expense? From a purely maintenance point of view, yes. You will get a higher level of service and expertise from a dealership because they are trained specifically to service and repair your car. An independent repair shop, while they may have excellent mechanics, just don't have access to the resources the dealer does.
Additional Information provided courtesy of ALLDATA
