Questions and Answers

Rebuilding A Jeep Cherokee Q. Man oh man, Lots of problems and questions here. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer. Here we go, the specs: 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0 liter engine Automatic transmission 4WD 130,000 miles Fuel injection No ABS P/S, A/C, Cruise

Runs great(!) but I've neglected it over the years and it's catching up with me. Now for the problems:

1. Cruise control works only intermittently and has been this way for over five years. Tends to work on a cold start for a few miles then road bumps kick it off. The servo module (is that the name?) was replaced years ago by the dealer but it never fixed the problem. The dealer said to replace the control on the turn signal. This I think I can do since I figured out the twist-to-unlock-and-pull-off design of the thing. *IF* that's the real problem. Ideas?

2. Driver side door leaks due to door not sealing properly. Been this way since purchase and dealer tried to improve this over five years ago. You can tell that the manufacturing process was off slightly by looking at the seam vs. the seam on the passenger door. Would a thicker gasket around the door help? Is a thicker gasket available? Is there any real help for the leaking?

3. The driver side door hinge broke loose a few weeks ago and I had it re-welded. Today I found this Chrysler service bulletin 23-017-02 on the internet regarding the door hinge separation and door "creak" on my year models 1993-1997 which recognizes the problem.

   Now, the passenger side front door hinge is coming loose (weld is rusting / breaking) just like the driver side. Should I use the same $150.00 welder like before or consider the dealer's ½ hour retro-fit (Chrysler kit # 05083060AA) based on the service bulletin noted above?

4. I have new tires but went too wide or too tall or both. Don't know the exact size. They aren't monster size or anything but one or two inches over stock in both height and width. When making sharper turns they rub the metal frame. Not rubbing the fender. Any solution for this?

5. Most concerning is the "Is the damn wheel coming off!" sound coming from what sounds like the front left tire area during left turns and immediately after coming out of the left turn after the vehicle has been driven for 10+ miles and typically after highway speeds. Sounds like metal rods of some sort "fluttering" against each other violently.

   No steering or vehicle vibration but VERY loud sound. Applying break stops the sound but it resumes after letting off the brake. After continuing straight (after the left turn) the sound gradually disappears in about ¼ to ½ mile.

   (BIG NOTE: I had brakes and rotors replaced about six weeks ago. Problem started after that. Had brake system re-checked by a different shop and all seems okay, solid etc.) Almost obviously a brake problem but what is it?

6. I don't have power windows or power door locks. The Jeep is nearly ten years old but I decided to put aftermarket power on myself as a "just for fun" project. The universal kit doesn't seem to fit due to the tight fit in the door where the window crank post is. Have universal aftermarket power door locks and windows been successfully done in my Jeep model?

7. The non-power antenna seems to only pick up one relatively local FM station. All AM stations are noise, all other FM are spotty. I replaced the stock stereo after having it tested (and it tested bad) but still no dice. I guess it's in the antenna somewhere, though the end-to-end link is good.

8. Last but not least, my rear hatch has two dinky compression lift arms and the right-rear one is stripped out of the threads in the upper frame. I've tried re-threading a number of times but it continues to be a problem. Is there a standard solution to this? I suspect it's a common problem on my make and model.

Thanks,
Joel

A. WOW!! Good thing it's a Sunday afternoon and all my housework is done. This is going to take a while.

1. There could be any number of things that could cause this. Since it works for a while and then cuts out consistently, I would suspect the cruise control module.

2. If you are sure it is the door seal that is at fault, you can get a new one from a Chrysler Dealer and have a body shop install it and adjust the door.

3. After reviewing the TSB you mentioned (and it is applicable) it would depend on the amount of breakage. If it were my car, I would let the dealer install the reinforcement and do the welding, if required. Usually a "patch" weld just makes it break at a different location.

4. Yes, put the proper tires back on.

5. I would carefully check the wheel bearing on the left front. It sounds like it could be going bad.

6. I'm sure they have. The ones I see are the ones that were put in and stop working or something broke. I send them back to the place where they had them installed to get them repaired. It sounds like you got the wrong kit.

7. Here is how to test the antenna:

The following four tests are used to diagnose the antenna with an ohmmeter:

• Test 1 - Mast to ground test
• Test 2 - Tip-of-mast to tip-of-conductor test
• Test 3 - Body ground to battery ground test
• Test 4 - Body ground to coaxial shield test.

Antenna Tests

The ohmmeter test lead connections for each test are shown in Antenna Tests.

NOTE: This model has a two-piece antenna coaxial cable. Tests 2 and 4 must be conducted in two steps to isolate a coaxial cable problem; from the coaxial cable connection under the right end of the instrument panel near the right cowl side inner panel to the antenna base, and then from the coaxial cable connection to the radio chassis connection.

Test 1
Test 1 determines if the antenna mast is insulated from the base. Proceed as follows:

1. Unplug the antenna coaxial cable connector from the radio chassis and isolate.
2. Connect one ohmmeter test lead to the tip of the antenna mast. Connect the other test lead to the antenna base. Check for continuity.
3. There should be no continuity. If continuity is found, replace the faulty or damaged antenna base and cable assembly.

Test 2
Test 2 checks the antenna for an open circuit as follows:

1. Unplug the antenna coaxial cable connector from the radio chassis.
2. Connect one ohmmeter test lead to the tip of the antenna mast. Connect the other test lead to the center pin of the antenna coaxial cable connector.
3. Continuity should exist (the ohmmeter should only register a fraction of an ohm ). High or infinite resistance indicates damage to the base and cable assembly. Replace the faulty base and cable, if required.

Test 3

Test 3 checks the condition of the vehicle body ground connection. This test should be performed with the battery positive cable removed from the battery. Disconnect both battery cables, the negative cable first. Reconnect the battery negative cable and perform the test as follows:

1. Connect one ohmmeter test lead to the vehicle fender. Connect the other test lead to the battery negative post.
2. The resistance should be less than one ohm .
3. If the resistance is more than one ohm , check the braided ground strap connected to the engine and the vehicle body for being loose, corroded, or damaged. Repair the ground strap connection, if required.

Test 4
Test 4 checks the condition of the ground between the antenna base and the vehicle body as follows:

1. Connect one ohmmeter test lead to the vehicle fender. Connect the other test lead to the outer crimp on the antenna coaxial cable connector.
2. The resistance should be less then one ohm .
3. If the resistance is more then one ohm , clean and/or tighten the antenna base to fender mounting hardware.

Support Rod Ball Studs

8. You can take the panel off, remove the ball stud from the lift gate with a T-30 Torx-head socket wrench and install a new one. If the nut is stripped, then you will need to replace the reinforcement plate with the welded nut.