Questions and Answers

Toyota 4 Runner Engine Getting Old And Noisy
Q. Hello, I have a question about my 1990 Toyota 4 Runner 4WD. Here is the information that is requested: 1990 Toyota 4runner SR5 4x4 2.4 liter SOHC (22R-E) Manual transmission 325,100 miles

The question I have is about the engine of my vehicle. As you may have saw, I have 325,100 miles on the original engine. I have installed a new radiator and all the hoses as well as a new water pump. Also, I have changed all the spark plugs and wires, fuel filter and other minor tune up things, fuel injector/carb/fuel cleaner.

The engine is running very rough, it actually sounds kind of like an old volkswagen bug (engine, not exhaust). It has recently passed emissions, but I do know that the catalytic convert is very rusty. Also it has no power and I have to downshift anytime there is even a gradual incline. If it is a steeper incline I'm usually in 2nd gear.

Also, I can feel a minor surge in the cars acceleration. And, it leaks a minor bit of oil. I have only had the car for about 3 years and do not know when the timing belt/chain was last changed. I am worried that my engine is going to die on me and am wondering what these symptoms could mean and what I should do to have it checked out in order to prevent it.

If I would have to rebuild the engine, I do want to keep it, do you have any idea how much it would run.

Any information you could provide is greatly appreciated.

Thank You,
Christopher

A. The first thing I would do before investing any more money into the engine is to do a wet/dry compression test to see what kind of shape the engine is in.

Before doing the compression test however, you should adjust the valves first since a valve that is too tight will adversely effect the test results. Here's how to adjust the valves.

Set the No.1 cylinder to TDC/compression. Turn the crankshaft with a wrench to align the timing marks at TDC. Set the groove on the pulley at the "0" mark position timing mark.

• Check that the rocker arms on the No.1 cylinder are loose and the rockers on No.4 are tight.
• If not, turn the crankshaft one complete revolution and align the marks as above.

2. Adjust the clearance of half of the valves.
   • Adjust only those valves indicated by arrows as shown.

Intake clearance: 0.20 mm (0.008 in.)
Exhaust clearance: 0.30 mm (0.012 in.)

• Use a feeler gauge to measure between the valve stem and rocker arm. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjusting screw to set the proper clearance. Hold the adjusting screw in position and tighten the lock nut.
• Recheck the clearance. The feeler gauge should move with a very slight drag.

3. Turn the crankshaft one revolution and adjust the other valves.

Caution: Over-tightening the valve cover nuts and completely squashing the rubber seals causes excessive valve noise. Tighten the 4 nuts only enough to squeeze the rubber seals about half way.

Once the valves are adjusted and the compression test done, we will know where we stand as far as the basic engine condition goes.

If we determine the engine needs major work, we have a few options. We can rebuild this one, install a used engine or get a remanufactured engine. The cost of rebuilding and engine varies depending on what is needed as far as replacement parts and such goes.

It has been my experience that after you add all the cleaning, parts and machine shop work that has to be done, it would be more cost effective to get a remanufactured engine with a warranty.