Questions and Answers

Dodge Ram Loses Power Q. Morning, the following are my truck specifications: (1) year -- 1994 (2) make -- Dodge (3) model -- Ram (4) series -- 1500 (5) # of cylinders -- V6 (6) engine size -- 3.9 liter (7) mileage - 94,500

To get you up to date on my problem, I have attached some on-going discussion with another automotive mechanic. It is as follows:

It's back! It was a little over a year ago that I was experiencing a loss of power and that very same problem is back. I lose power when driving at speeds of 65 (highway) or while accelerating from a stoplight (0 to 40mph). Note, however, the problem occurs intermittently (only when I drive it) to and from work.

My truck (1994 Doge Ram, 1500, V6) has been in the shop since last Tuesday (December 4, 2001)and my mechanic (who, by the way could not determine the problem last time around) has driven it on 280, on city streets and even driven it home, but according to his latest update, the truck rides perfectly fine. I know I'm not crazy, but you stated in August 18, 220 article (relating to this very problem) it's like trying to find a needle in a haystack. And as your article stated I am losing power and losing my patience.

-----Original Message-----
From: Brad X HIDDEN [mailto:HIDDEN@HIDDEN.com]
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2000 2:03 PM
To: Curtis
Subject: Re: Loss of Power While Driving

Curtis,

If the fuel pressure test comes up normal, I'd consider a second opinion on the ignition diagnosis with a Dodge dealer, as their diagnostic equipment is probably superior to that of AAA or Greenslip.

My experience in the past has been that AAA and other inspections sometimes point out irregularities that may be within the manufacturer's specs, or simply not of great enough consequence to repair (do they nit-pick somewhat to help justify the inspection cost?). It's also possible they're on to something that could be verified by the dealer.

The fact that the symptoms have largely subsided makes me wonder if the fuel filter may have been part of the problem. NOTE: FUEL FILTER REPLACED.

If it helps any, keep in mind that the $600.00 you've spent has really been for maintenance, rather than repairs.

Brad

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Yes, that was with the gas pedal floored. To update you on the problem, I have since replaced or had the following work done:

1. major tune-up (spark plugs, rotor, etc.)
2. transmission fluid and filter replaced
3. fuel filter replaced
4. O2 sensor replaced.

The problem is somewhat non-existent, however, I'm still experiencing some sluggishness while driving at cruising speeds of 65 mph. It seems that I have to press down on the acceleration pedal more than normal to maintain the speed. I did a visual of the engine area and noticed the air filter box was not properly secure onto the throttle body. Would this cause the problems I am or have been experiencing?

Also, I've have had two (yes, two) different facilities (i.e., AAA and Greenslip) perform complete diagnostics on my vehicle and both have found problems with the ignition system. To be more specific, the dwell readings were abnormal; probable cause, spark controller. I know diagnostics are not guarantees of vehicle condition, but I've already plucked down in excess of $600 in repair work. What are your thoughts?

Lastly, I will have a fuel pressure check done in the second week of September.

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-----Original Message-----
From: Brad X [mailto:HIDDEN@HIDDEN.com]
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 1:56 PM
To: XXX@HIDDEN.com
Subject: Re: Loss of Power While Driving

Was that 45 MPH with the gas pedal floored? Wow! I'd go after the fuel pressure check first.

Brad

A. If you have replaced the spark plug wires there is a good chance the problem is cross fire. This engine is very sensitive to this condition and if the wires are not routed exactly correct, the engine will display these symptoms.

Here's what you need to get and how to route the wires so there is no more cross-firing.

PARTS REQUIRED:
3	56028186	Clip, Single Wire
2	06503441	Clip, Wire To Hose (5.2 & 5.9)
1	04364375	Convolute, 10 ft Roll

Coil Wire Routing

• Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap tower terminal.
• Remove the coil wire from the right rear five-wire clip, the center three wire clip and the front one-wire clip on the right valve cover.
• Install three (3) one-wire clips P/N 56028186 along the top and front of the valve cover studs.
• Route the coil wire starting from the ignition coil toward the distributor. Any excess wire should end up at the distributor end.
• Install the coil wire into the one-wire clips. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover (before the one-wire clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
• Cut the ignition wire convolute P/N 04364375 into three lengths. Two (2) at 101.5 mm (4 in.), and one (1) at 82.5 mm (3.25 in.).
• Slit and install the three sections of convolute onto the coil wire between the one-wire clips. Install the 82.5 mm (3.25 in.) section at the front of the right valve cover. Install the two 101.5 mm (4 in.) sections along the top side of the right valve cover. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover (before the clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
• Route the distributor end of the coil wire down and behind the intake manifold, in front of the oil pressure switch.
• Position the original piece of coil wire convolute so it protects the wire against chafing with components at the rear of the engine.
• Route the distributor end of the coil wire up the side of the distributor cap and onto the coil wire tower terminal.

NOTE: THE COIL WIRE MUST BE A MINIMUM OF ONE (1) INCH AWAY FROM ANY OTHER IGNITION WIRES. THIS MAY REQUIRE THAT THE COIL WIRE BE ROUTED UNDER VACUUM AND/OR WIRE HARNESSES IN THE RIGHT REAR CORNER OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.

Additional Information provided courtesy of ALLDATA