DIY: Replacing Front Wheel Bearings

   Now that everything is nice and clean, let's put the new races and bearings in.

1. Take one of the new races and coat the outside with some wheel bearing grease. This will help it slide into the hub. If you have a race driver, select the proper size and tap the new race into the hub. Make sure you drive it in evenly and do not cock it. If you don't have a race driver, use your hammer to tap the outside of the race to get it started making sure you tap evenly around the race. When it is flush with the hub, use your flat narrow punch and drive it in the rest of the way. Make sure it is fully seated. The sound of the tapping will change when it's seated and you can look from the other side to visually confirm this.

2. Do the same for the other race.

3. If you don't have a bearing packer, you will need to pack them by hand. Put a glob of wheel bearing grease in the palm of your hand. Slip the wheel bearing on your index finger like a ring with the wide end facing out. Then tap the bearing into the glob of grease until you see it coming out the other side. When you see it come out turn the whole bearing, don't just rotate it on your finger, and repeat the procedure until the whole bearing has grease coming out the other side. Repeat this for the other bearings.

4. Okay, now that we have the races installed and the bearings packed, we can put everything back together. Starting with the inner bearing put a bed of grease on the surface of the race and then push the inner wheel bearing into it. Now take your new grease seal and tap it into place, being careful not to bend or distort it. You can use a small block of wood to install it.

5. Put a coating of grease inside the hub between the two races and on the spindle, don't be too stingy, too much is better than too little. We do this because if any moisture should happen to get inside, the grease will keep the metal from rusting.

6. Now slide the rotor or drum straight onto the spindle. It should slide on easily. If it doesn't, the bearing is cocked a little. Slide it off and make sure the bearing is sitting flat and try again.

7. Once it is on, place a bed of grease on the outer race and slide the outer wheel bearing on. Slide the washer on. The washer will probably have a tab that will align with the spindle, make sure that you line them up when you put it in.

8. Now place the nut on the spindle and tighten it by hand until it won't go anymore. Spin the rotor or drum a few times back and forth and then tighten the nut come more by hand. This insures that the bearings are seated in their races. Do it a couple of times until you can't get it any tighter by hand.

9. Now tighten the nut ¼ turn, no more than 16 foot-pounds. If you have a castellated nut, line it up with the hole going through the spindle. Install a NEW cotter pin and fold it over. If you have a retaining ring, place it on the nut and install the cotter pin. Never reuse the old cotter pin and make sure you do install it. Basically this is the only thing holding the front wheel on.

10. Put a small blob of grease on the inside of the dust cap and tap it into place, being careful not to crush it. Make sure it is fully seated.

   And that's it; you're done. It is not very difficult to do and with care and patience you'll be able to do it like a professional. As with anything a little common sense as you do the job will see you through any problems you may have. By doing this your self, you save about $75.00 to $100.00 in labor costs. Most wheel bearings run in the $10.00 to $25.00 dollar range.

   If you have a front wheel drive car, these instructions will apply to the rear wheel bearings.

_{Additional Information provided courtesy of ALLDATA DIY}

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